Ludwigshafen: First Impressions

The first thing out of my mouth when I saw Ludwigshafen on the horizon was something like "Are all those smokestacks in Ludwigshafen?". It turns out that, yes, they certainly are.

Okay I know I've been spoiled the past few years living in Zürich. It's clean, it's organized, the public transport system is the best in the world, and the scenery is some of the most beautiful on earth. There is almost no traffic, the produce is fresh and plentiful, and there is loads of green space filled with trails to wander around on. The buildings are capped at 6 stories, there are no major highways going through town, and no major industrial companies here to make it look ugly.

Now take most of those statements I just made about Zürich and reverse them and you have Ludwigshafen. Sure there are some cute areas in Ludwigshafen ... here's a pic of one of them with some smokestacks in the background:



We viewed four apartments while in Ludwigshafen yesterday. The one with the most potential was on the 12th floor of a 21-story building. There was nothing wrong with the apartment - clean, hardwood floors, enormous balcony that you can go out onto from any room in the apartment, and it faced south and east so it will get lots of daylight. But here's the view:



Here I zoomed in a bit:



I lost count of how many smokestacks you can see from this apartment. Okay to be fair those big fields are probably green and lovely in the summer and that big snowy patch is a lake and there's got to be some sort of pathway to walk or jog on around it. The view above is to the left ... straight ahead is another high-rise apartment building ... to the right is a major 4-lane busy road and next to that are the train tracks. Though to be fair there are no smokestacks in that direction and you can even see a few hills far in the distance:



You can see that the balcony is enormous, every door there goes into the apartment and the balcony even wraps around the other side of the building a bit.

I asked our realtor how I would go about getting to a grocery store on foot and she said well you take your car. I said, we don't have a car to which she replied then you go on bike. Well we don't have bikes either. I have gotten so used to being able to walk everywhere and not depend on a car it's kind of depressing that I will have to start driving everywhere again.

The other thing I found amusing about Ludwigshafen is how much of it is taken up by BASF (it employs over 30,000 people which is about half the population of Ludwigshafen though of course not all BASF employees live in Ludwigshafen but I'd guess about half of them do). Two of the apartments we looked at were right across the street from it ... one of them right across from the building that Martin will be working in. I could buy some binoculars and spy on him throughout the day from that apartment. Here's a pic from the kitchen of another apartment ... it's just an eyeful of BASF:



And that's right, that kitchen is empty. Germans take their kitchens with them every time they move! Appliances, sink, countertops, cabinets ... everything. So when you move to Germany add about $5k to your moving costs because you have to buy and install an entire kitchen wherever you move in to. On the bright side, that kitchen is yours for life and you get to take it with you when you leave. Isn't that swell? Ha. Because what if the cabinets don't match where you move to next? Or don't fit properly into the new kitchen? Or what if you're moving overseas and the shipping costs of your kitchen appliances are too high to take them with you? I just don't understand why Germans carry their kitchens with them everywhere, at least not when they're renting apartments.

Okay but there were some good things about Ludwigshafen as well like the cheaper prices compared to Switzerland, the number of days of sunshine per year (much higher than that of Zürich for sure), and the number of Turkish people there! We found a döner kebab place for lunch and saw a Turkish specialty grocery store and one of the apartments we looked at was being rented out by a couple of Turkish guys. Not sure what they all find so appealing about the area but I will be happy to eat their food on a regular basis. If only they'd export their wine to Germany too!

Let's end this blog post with some relaxing pictures Martin took on a snowy walk in the woods behind our apartment in Zürich:





Ahhhhhh. Now that's better. Thankfully Zürich is only a 3-hour train ride from Ludwigshafen (Basel is only about 2).