Wednesday, March 8, 2017

A Week of Winter Fun in Guarda, Switzerland


We just spent a week in the village of Guarda, Switzerland - population 157 (plus a village cat! And sheep and cows, of course). We decided we wanted to take a sporty winter trip and we also wanted to escape from reality a little bit so we bought ourselves cross country skiing equipment, found a hotel in a small village off the main tourist path, and booked a week there. We spent 3 days xc skiing, 1 day snowboarding/downhill skiing, and one day winter hiking followed by relaxing at the Bogn Engiadina in Scuol enjoying their Roman-Irish bath treatment (it was amazing, if you're ever near Scuol, Switzerland, book it!).

First, a bit about Guarda. We stayed at the Boutique Hotel Romantica Val Tuoi. Really, I doubt you could find a hotel with friendlier owner or staff. I highly recommend a stay there if you're ever looking to get away from it all in Switzerland. Guarda itself is perched at 1,650 meters elevation on the side of a mountain. You have to drive up a narrow, curvy road to get to it. Thankfully they treat it well in the winter so you can still access the village in the snow! The town is very picturesque and there were always some tourists there just wandering around and enjoying its quaintness every day.

And, BONUS, to get to Guarda from elsewhere in Switzerland, you get to take a car train! That's a train that you drive onto in your car. Then you sit in your car for 20 minutes in the dark in a tunnel. Then you drive on. It's pretty fantastic.



Here are some pictures of Guarda "before snow". They had a record low snowfall this year but starting halfway through our trip it started snowing and they ended up with more snow in the week of our visit than they had gotten leading up to it.



Guarda even comes with its very own village cat! They called him Garfield and he was hefty but adorable. He liked to greet people by the doors of the hotel and try to sneak in to warm his toes.



A few fun facts about our hotel. #1, they make a delicious cheese fondue. They don't use flour in it so it's extra cheesy. I'd never had it without flour before and Martin needs to try making it that way once. The food in general at the hotel was all very good. But the portions were enormous. We stayed with half-board which included a 4-course dinner every night. And we could never finish it all because the main dish was always some serious meat and potatoes. And asparagus! So much asparagus lol. After the first two nights we switched to only eating 3 of the courses and that generally went better. #2 fun fact, the doorways were all super short. Just head injuries waiting to happen. Our room was in a remodeled building and they still decided to leave in the short doorways.



We cross-country skied on the prepared tracks between Guarda and St Moritz, completing the stretches between Samedan and Pontresina on day 1, St. Moritz and the Silvaplanersee on day 2 (in heavy wet snow and high winds), and Zuoz and Bever on day 3. We didn't take many pictures but below are a few.



For the most part, the trails were flat or with gentle rolling hills. There was one steep hill though where Martin felt the need to test his edges:



We went to the Scuol ski area on Friday, thinking it wouldn't be too busy on a weekday, only to hit kid's downhill slalom race day during the school vacation week. Lucky us! It was a gorgeous sunny day though and we got in plenty of runs for our tired legs. The best parts of the day besides the sunshine and good snowboarding were a) chicken fingers for lunch, and b) a bake sale at the bottom of the gondola! What genius, to park yourself where everybody offloads at the end of a long day and sell them baked goods. We bought a cream puff sort of thing and a cookie with apricot jam in it and they were both amazing.



And then it snowed! Here's some snow in Guarda. The third picture below is the building our hotel room was in (it was across the street from the main building of the hotel). The sheep's barn that held the sheep pictured below was right next door, but oddly we never smelled it.



I can't tell which of these pictures I like best, so I'm posting both. You're welcome.



After the first snow, totaling 6-8", we went for a nice snow walk. They groom the hiking trails up by Guarda! I think they groom a specific trail that goes to the top of one of the mountain peaks behind Guarda, along with several trails down around Guarda itself. Which is really nice. It was gorgeous.



Not after but during the second snow, which was up to 6-8" by the time we left, we got to slip and slide around on the village roads (on foot to start). The village has two roads and they both are very narrow with very sharp turns - and all downhill on the way out of town which was the direction we were heading in. It was an interesting morning because the whole town was out and about - seemed like the kids had off from school and they were all out in snowsuits. Adults were shoveling walkways and driveways. We helped several people get their cars out of ditches or up the slippery road. Everybody was helping out. We also spread gravel on the roads by hand with the locals to help cars gain traction (we were mostly concerned about our own car, of course). Then, in first gear, we finally made it out of the village and onto the salted, cleared roads. My guess is that, in the village, they can't treat or fully plow the roads because they're cobblestone and need to be preserved. But I'm willing to bet every corner of a house that faces the street has at least a few dents in it from a car or truck trying to gain traction and failing in the snow. The building across from our hotel room has had its entire corner wiped away because the garbage truck doesn't fit between the buildings!

Sunday, December 11, 2016

2016 Christmas Markets


A Summary of the markets we visited this December. Not a lot, as I fly to the US on the 17th so our time was limited.

We started with a weekend in Strasbourg. We had planned a tour of Alsace, with stops in Riquewihr and Colmar, but our friends had two extra tickets to Cirque du Soleil in Strasbourg so we ended up spending the whole weekend there instead. We'll do Riquewihr and Colmar next year!

We stayed at a nice airbnb apartment on the outskirts of the main part of Strasbourg. It was a 20-minute walk on nice paths along one of the canals to the pedestrian area, or a 5-minute walk to the tram and then 3 tram stops. So, it was basically the perfect location for us. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't concerned about the terror situation in France before we went, but staying in an apartment outside of the main drag in a quiet residential area helped a bit for sure. And there was high security everywhere - police checking bags before you entered the completely-closed-to-traffic downtown area of Strasbourg, extra police presence, smaller markets than usual, and before we entered the theater for Cirque we were patted down and swabbed for explosive residue. It's sad that France has to have so much extra security, but I felt better knowing it was there for sure.

Anyway. Here are some pictures from around Strasbourg the two days we were there. We started out wandering around a few of the smaller markets on Friday evening (there are maybe 10? markets around the city). Excuse my poor night time picture taking skills with my iphone.



We ate dinner at a restaurant called the Onion (L'oignon), which had been recommended to us by one of our friends who lived there for several years. The food was excellent, though a little buttery. But french food is always amazing and full-fat. I enjoyed some scallops over risotto and Martin had the tiger steak, which had herbs and peanuts on top of it. Below is a pic of the outside of the restaurant and the wine-cork curtain that was inside of it (I'm saving that for a cork craft idea!)



On Saturday we wandered into Strasbourg on foot and visited the rest of the markets. It was really crazy crowded and not all that enjoyable. Below is Martin pausing on the walk into town.



There is one market that focuses on one country or city every year, and this year it was Portugal! I tasted some of the Portuguese wines and one was decent enough to buy (we drank it the next night already).



The obligatory cathedral pics. It really is impressive, but hard to capture on a camera.



There are a lot of houses decorated throughout Strasbourg. This one wasn't even one of the better ones, but alas the only one I took a picture of! Several of them had stuffed teddy bears all over them. It was really neat. Too bad I have no pictures to show you lol.



And the Christmas tree, in one of the squares. It's supposedly a "market" but it only contains a few stalls. Not even worth visiting except to see the tree, which is likely more impressive at night than during the day.



And of course we made it to our favorite market, Deidesheim, just this weekend. Just 9 minutes on the train from our town, or a 10-minute car ride. It has really nice things to buy, just a higher quality in general, and I find it really atmospheric. The problem is, like everything in the Pfalz is becoming these days, is that it's crowded. So we went early on a Sunday afternoon this year. There were still more people there than we had expected, but it wasn't too crowded. And okay I know I post pics from Deidesheim every. single. year. but it's a little different every time!



For example, this year we got hot chocolate! It being Sunday and mid-day, we weren't in the mood for alcohol (okay I had Bailey's in mine!). These were amazing and just hit the spot.



Okay I just thought it was funny that this place had the word "Krack" on it. It was selling Glühwein and I'm not sure what Krack means or how it related.



One of my favorite treats, kisses! Chocolate-covered marshmallow. :) I was good this year and didn't buy any, but I really wanted some.



And Martin got some roasted chestnuts, one of his favorites.



We ate "Feuerlachs" for lunch - that's fire-roasted salmon, with a mustard-dill or yogurt-herb sauce, on a roll. I usually go for greasier fare when at a Christmas market, but this year I decided to be healthy.



And finally, a few pictures from the new market in our own little town, Bad Dürkheim. The market here is small but atmospheric! Hopefully they keep doing it.